8 Advantages of E-Books

As far as reading is concerned, e-books are all the rage in the here and now. In this article, we are going to talk about the advantages of electronic books. Let’s go over some of the main advantages.

1) Availability

Digital books never go out of stock/print. All you need to do is get access to the website that provides a link to the book you are interested in. Within minutes, the book will be available to you.

2) Compatibility

As soon as you have downloaded the book, you can create its copies on different devices that you may own. You can also benefit from the cloud storage services. Moreover, if you delete the eBook by accident, you can re-download it from the cloud storage.

3) Storage

Another thing that makes eBooks popular is the ease of storage. The traditional books take up a good deal of storage as each book occupies some physical space. In a room, you can store a limited number of books. On the other hand, millions of electronic books can be stored in a single hard drive or memory card. And these digital devices don’t take a lot of storage space.

4) Format

eBooks offer another great advantage, which is their format. As far as the type of media is concerned, you can enjoy pictures, audios and videos in e-books.

5) Audio

The synchronization of eBooks to audio books is a piece of cake. As a matter of fact, most of today’s e-books come with a built-in audio book feature. So, you can learn from your eBooks while you are on the move. All you need to do is connect your headphones to your mobile and enjoy listening to your audio books.

6) Visual Aids

If you are a visual learner, different types of aids, such as charts and graphs are part of eBooks. Luckily, the functionality of these digital books is far beyond the traditional books. If your goal is to read and retain information, we suggest that you opt for the electronic type.

7) Search

Ease of search is another great feature of eBooks. Even if you have an eBook consisting of 5000 pages, you can get access to the right page within a few seconds. It just takes a few seconds to type your desired keywords and reach the target page. You don’t need to flip through the book in order to get the information you need. The search feature can help you a lot if you are a student.

8) Cost

Unlike the conventional printed media, digital books can be bought at a fraction of the cost. This is even more important if you are a university student and can’t spend thousands of dollars on your books.

So, if you download eBooks instead of buying the hardcover books, you can save a good deal of money. You just need to download the book and launch it on your computer or mobile device.

In short, if you own a computer or mobile device, make sure you give a go to the eBook versions of your favorite books.

Source by Shalini Madhav

Why People Read Inspirational Books

Why do people read inspirational books? Well, all of us has their own problems, may it be small or big and we always find a way to deal with it. There are people who have experienced so much pain and burden in their lives and they feel that they are never going to get out of it. But they still fight and eventually end up succeeding and for some, losing.

Most of us if we have problems we want to talk to someone so they can give us advise and help us. For some, they get help from inspirational books. These books contains the life experiences of people who have gone through a lot in their lives and wants to share how they conquered their fears, sickness and problems. Through this, we are able to relate with them and we are inspired to do the same.

Even if we do not have big problems or serious illness to deal with, we learn from their story. There are inspirational books that talks about people who have excelled in the profession that they chose and now living a good life. We strive to be like them because these kinds of stories assured us that if they can succeed, we all can too. Sometimes we just need assurance and evidence before we believe that the impossible can really be possible.

There are also inspirational books that talks about people stricken by serious illnesses who have battled it for years and lived to tell their story. These kind of stories give strength to those who have the same illness or are suffering from other kinds of illness. They are encouraged to still try and live a happy life even if they are spending it in a hospital bed.

Inspirational books do really teach us great lessons and shows us that in every struggle there is hope and in every problem there is a solution. We are all connected to one another may be not by blood but through our stories.

Source by Crystal Jennings

Common Book Problems – And How to Solve Them!

How can I remove the musty smell from old books? While you can probably not completely remove the smell, there are ways to minimize it. On way is to create a deodorizing chamber. Take two garbage cans, one large and one smaller. The smaller must be able to contain the book(s) to be deodorized, the larger must be able to contain the smaller with some room about the sides. The book to be deodorized should be placed in the smaller can, which is then placed inside the larger can. Placed odor-absorbing materials (such as baking soda, cedar chips, coffee grounds, charcoal briquettes(without lighter fluid), or kitty litter), in the bottom of the larger can. The lid should be placed on the larger can only and the whole should be left alone for some time (days, at least). Monitor the set-up periodically by sniffing the book(s).

A second option is the use of MicroChamber products. These remove by-products of deterioration and pollutants, such as the smell from mold and mildew. They are like pieces of paper, which can be placed between the pages of the book. Place a sheet of the fine, 100% cotton interleaving tissue between the front board and the endpaper, every 50 pages throughout the volume, and again between the back board and the endpaper. Close the book and set it aside until the odor is reduced.

Our basement flooded and the pages of my high school yearbook are stuck together, what can I do? Unfortunately, not much. Yearbooks, pamphlets, magazines, and art books are often composed from glossy coated paper. If this paper becomes wet and then begins to dry, the coating on one page sticks to the coating on the next. It can’t be reversed. For institutions which suffer water damage to books, freezing within 6 hours, followed by vacuum freeze drying, can be successful in saving this type of material. The vacuum freeze drying is carried out by a commercial service such as AFD.

If the pages are only partially stuck together, you can try to gently separate the pages with a micro spatula. Going slowly and carefully may salvage some of the pages. There will be some loss in the areas where the pages were stuck.

Rain came in the window and my book was soaked. Anyway to make it readable again? Although it will never look as good as it once did, it can be made readable again. Using blotter paper or paper towels, blot as much water from the book as possible. DO NOT rub either the cover or the wet pages. Stand the book on its tail and fan open the pages. You don’t want a direct heat source for drying, but a warm dry one. If possible dry the book in this position in the sunlight or with the use of a fan. The more quickly the book dries the less the pages will ripple. If cover is warped, you can place the book between two press boards and place in a book press for several days (or under several heavy books!).

I opened one of my books and saw a tiny bug crawling in it, what should I do? They are most likely booklice (also known as psocids) or silverfish. Booklice are extremely small, about 1-2mm long. Silverfish are larger(up to 12.5mm) and over time can eat holes in paper. Often they show up when humidity is a problem in a storage area. If it a book or two, place them in an airtight plastic bag and put them in your freezer a couple of days. That will kill the insects. If more books are involved but only a few insects are seen, reduce the humidity in the space and vacuum the materials well. If you still see insects after a few days, or if the problem is widespread, you will have to resort to killing them. While non-chemical measures are preferable to chemical treatments, “bug bombing” the room will take care of the infestation. Just remember to address the cause of the insects – temperature and humidity problems. Keep them both low. It is best to contact a preservation professional to discuss appropriate options is valuable books are involved.

We have some old wooden bookcases. Are they safe and appropriate for valuable book storage? From the perspective of preservation, valuable books should be stored on metal shelving, as wood shelving can give off damaging pollutants. To make the wood shelving a “safe” as possible, seal all the wood with a moisture-borne polyurethane. Avoid oil-based paints and stains because of the oil and latex because of its inability to completely adhere. Shelves can be lined with glass, Plexiglas, or an inert metallic laminate material to prevent materials from coming into direct contact with the wood. If the bookcases are closed wooden cabinets or shelving which are not usually accessed, they should be aired out several times per year to minimize the buildup of damaging fumes.

I have some old leather books whose bindings are dried and cracked, should I put leather dressing on them? No. The use of leather dressings (neatsfoot oil, lanolin, etc.) is no longer recommended by conservators and preservationists. They tend to have undesirable effects such as discoloration, staining, and stickiness; wicking of oil into adjoining materials; and increased danger of mold growth on treated materials; among other problems. If flaking or cracked leather covers are a problem, they can be wrapped in paper or polyester jackets. This will keep the fragments and dirt from flaking off further and onto hands and other books. Leather dressing can be appropriate for some objects, but advice should be sought from a conservator before using it.

There are grease-like marks in my book! Absorbing the marks by interleaving the book with paper towels and closing the book. If that doesn’t work, you can sprinkle the contents of a dry cleaning pad on the marks. Using your finger tips, very gently and lightly rub the pad dust over the page in a circular manner (DO NOT RUB WITH FINGERS IF PAGES ARE BRITTLE!). Let it sit for awhile, then brush dust away (Always brush away from the gutter of the book to the edge). If the marks are from a pencil, erase them using a gum or plastic eraser. Stroke with the eraser in a forward motion towards the page edge. Brush away eraser dust and dirt very lightly with a soft brush.

A page in my favorite book is torn. Can I just tape it together? Yes and No… Scotch tape is not appropriate for a book you want to keep. You will need archival document repair tape. To repair, first determine the correct position for the two sides of the tear to overlap. All paper has a grain and you will be able to tell how the repair would “sit”. If the tear is long and changes direction, mend only one direction at a time. Use only as much tape as is necessary to cover the tear. This is a quick repair but often the tape does not adhere well. You may need to use a warm tacking iron covered by a light blotter paper to set the repair tape. Other book repairs can be found at A Simple Book Repair Manual.

How do I clean the page edges of my books? Try a Document Cleaning Pad available from Lineco Archival Products. It’s like a bag of eraser crumbs and works wonders.

How do I clean vellum binding? Use milk and cotton wool. Moisten the cotton wool in the milk and rub the vellum gently but firmly.

How do I remove a label? For a homemade remedy, use a mixture of flour and water. Just mix enough flour into the water to keep it from flowing when it is poured onto a surface. Then use a small paint brush to generously coat the paper that is being removed. Usually, within 15-20 mins, the water soluble glue will soften and the unwanted paper can be peeled off.(Practice on a cheap book your first attempt!).

Or, in a well-ventilated place, spray it with lighter fluid (Ronsonal), wait five seconds, gently rub with a cloth or cotton ball (or cotton flat, which I find works best). I’ve used this technique literally hundreds of times without a problem: the excess fluid evaporates in a few minutes and leaves no residue.

How do I remove a label from a dust jacket? Apply a hot iron for a moment to heat the label. This loosens the glue and often the label can be removed very cleanly. To supplement the iron, try using cigarette lighter fluid (naphta), which helps get rid of any sticky residue. Mineral spirits will also work. You can also try to remove a sticker with an X-acto knife (broad, rounded blade), getting gently under it with the blade until peeling up, then peel slooooowly off with fingers. To loosen a really stubborn sticker, oak it with a q-tip saturated with spirits, wait a minute, then remove. I clean up any residual stickiness with a paper towel wetted in mineral spirits.

My child wrote in crayon… any hope? Unlike ink, which penetrates the paper, crayon marks are at the surface.Try very fine steel wool (0000 grade). Gentle rubbing will usually remove, or minimize, the crayon marks without causing harm to the paper. (As with any cleaning method, practice on a book you don’t care about.)

Mold is growing on my book! R.L. Shep in his “Cleaning and Repairing Books… a Practical Home Manual” mentions using hydrogen peroxide, carefully applied to the area with an eyedropper; lemon juice applied the same, and placed in the sun for a “short time only”; denatured alcohol, applied with a soft rag or cotton swap; thymol in a solution of alcohol. As with all “blot up any excess”. If mildew is between the pages of the book, he suggest diatomaceous earth, sprinkled between the pages and brushed or vacuumed out several days later. If the book is spotted from a previous “infestation”, using lemon juice or a weak solution of peroxide, applied in small amounts with an eyedropper and wiped off quickly, followed by a good coat of “Renaissance Wax” (available from McCune, Inc., San Francisco) or some other good wax.

Even if you think it could be removed with a stiff brush, DO NOT remove it that way, as that will almost certainly damage the surrounding cloth. Instead, take a sharp-pointed, scalpel-type blade and/or a pair of tweezers, and a high-powered magnifying glass and work carefully at scraping/prising away the gunk without damaging the cloth itself. Some moderately light brushing towards the end may help to get rid of traces. If the stains can not be removed in this way, water is probably the next thing to try. Use wet tissue to dampen the whole surface of the board (otherwise damp stain marks are likely to appear). Then draw a blunt edge (like a bone folder) smoothly across the board. Don’t use anything sharp or you risk damaging the cloth. Don’t rub the damp board with tissue or cloth or anything, as this will probably remove the dye in the cloth. Depending on the type of dye used, you are likely to lose some of the color anyway, but do it carefully and the loss will be negligible and pretty much unnoticeable. Work very carefully round the title/gilt stamping or similar, drawing the bone folder away from such areas towards the edge of the board.

Basically, you’re teasing the dirt out of the fabric; don’t dump it on top of the title, etc., just work it towards the edges of the board, where it can be wiped gently off. You may be able to remove much of the the stain this way but the stain (or parts of it) may simply mix in with the water and the dye on the cloth. Even so, the resulting gunk, when distributed smoothly across the boards with a bone folder or similar, will be an improvement! Don’t use chemicals. They may improve the immediate appearance of the book, but within a year or two their corrosive effects will begin to become apparent.

Killing off the spores. The spores (if they are such) are probably best killed off by sunshine, which apparently works just as well (or even better) behind glass as in the open air. Leave it on the windowsill on a sunny day for an hour or so. Ideally, if you are going to dampen the board to clean it, do it on a sunny day and put the book in the sun to dry. Don’t do any of the above on anything that’s really valuable; leave it in the hands of a professional.

How do I get rid of foxing? Simple answer… you don’t. This needs to be done by a professional conservator. The only thing you might try is to take a slice of white bread and remove the crust. Spread a newspaper to catch the crumbs. Remember white bread is made with bleached flour and is moist. Gently rub the bread on the page in a circular motion and it will soon crumble, ball up, and if you’re lucky, start to darken. The light abrasion applied will not harm the paper, the bleach will help whiten and the moist bread will remove some soiling and lighten stains. Don’t expect perfection but look for improvement.

It looks like the leather binding on one of my books is rotting – what to do? First of all, you need immediate climate control. Get the humidity and temperature down and keep them there. Weird book rot (in spots and not all over) may indeed be a literal “bug”. Carefully daubed the open rotted place and edges with Lysol on a q-tip and see if that stops the spread. If your leather is overall dry and powdery, nothing will really help.

Can I fix a cocked or slanted spine?

1. Put book on flat surface.

2. Open to 2nd page and run finger along left inside edge near spine from top of book to bottom.

3. Open to last page – 2 and run finger along right inside edge near spine from top of book to bottom (as above).

4. Repeat from front of book page 4.

5. Repeat from back of book page [last – 4]

6. Repeat pattern until you meet in the middle.

Or simply turn the book upside down and “read” it backwards. Paperbacks can be microwaved gently to warm the glue inside the spine. This process will usually correct off kilter or rolled spines.

Suggested: 30 seconds on low setting.

Should I remove rusted staples from a pamphlet? Under most circumstances, any piece will retain more of its value if left as close to original as possible. Trying to replace the staples could possibly lead to accidental damage. On the other hand, since the staples threaten the integrity and longevity of the main part of the original some would say they should be removed if possible. As the paper expands and contracts over the years due to humidity and temperature it works against the inflexible staples and tears itself. The rust itself can be corrosive. So, try to remove the staples carefully and either leave the pamphlet unstitched or possibly restitch it with soft thread.

The pages in my book are deteriorating! Nearly all books between about 1870 and almost the present time used acidic paper. After about 100 years, most of them are so brittle they will disintegrate the first time you read them. One treatment that will extend paper life is Bookkeeper or Wei T’o de acidification sprays. This will not restore the strength of your brittle paper — it will just slow down the deterioration. Some ink, especially some colored ink, will get smeary — test this before you treat a whole book.

Low temperatures and humidity are a big help. 20 or 30% humidity is fairly good, and consistency of both temperature and humidity is much more important than the exact numbers. Just remember that every time your book warms up in an environment where there’s also increasing moisture, it’s as though you were dipping it into a dilute acid bath.

How do I stop binding glue from becoming brittle? There’s not too much you can do. Most glues are either hydroscopic or thermoplastic, but you are taking a risk to use water or heat around a book. Taking the book to a binder and having it reglued is the best bet.

I’m moving. How do I pack my books? Flat with edges out, so the books are spine to spine in the box. Stuff any space with crumpled bubble wrap or the like so the books don’t rattle around. If you hear anything when you shake the box, open it up and redo. A box dropped on a corner can cause a lot of damage to the books inside. If at all possible, do not store the boxes on a cement floor (ie garage) for any extended period of time. Cement has a lot of moisture which can be drawn up into the dry cardboard box and dry paper books. Water destroys books faster than fire.

Should I rebind an old book? Unless there’s something really wrong with the original binding, you could significantly lower the value by rebinding. Also, do not bind it with string or rubber bands. This will cause the pages to warp or crimp and will leave marks. Temporarily, you can use white cotton twill tape. The best way is to put the book into an archival box. These can be custom made to the exact size (ideal) or you can use a retail one which is a close match in size.

Source by Bethany Hacker

Uses of Cash Books in Accounting

So what are cashbooks used for? In accounting they are used to record both cash transactions received by the business and cash paid out by the business. It has two sides; The debit side and the credit side. Each side of the cash book in accounting has columns for;


-Particular; where you record the products.

-Bank; This is where you record payments made by cheques and receipt of cheques.

-Cash; This is the column where you should record cash received and cash paid out.

Debit side; This is used to record any cash received after which it is posted in the cash column in the cash book. For example if you made sales on a cash basis of goods worth 80,000$, then this will be recorded on the debit side on the cash book. The debit side is also used to record cheques received by the business i.e if a customer pays for goods by cheque worth 120,000$, then this is recorded on the debit side on the bank column.

Credit side; The credit side is used to record cash and cheques paid for by the business. For example if your fuel costs about 100$ and is used up in a day, then it will be credited or written on the credit side of the cash book.However if the supplies are paid for using a cheque worth 200,000$ then it is recorded on the Bank column of the credit side of the cash book. So what is the importance of a cashbook in accounting anyway? You may ask. Well…

1. It helps the business in capturing all the payment and receipt for a particular month or duration.

2. It is used to reconcile Bank statements.

3. It can be used as a reference in accounting during auditing hence it gives evidence that goes a long way in directing the auditors while they are going through your books of account.

Source by Odongo Okungu

The Difference Between Digital Books and Ebooks

Most people today, don’t know the difference between a digital book and an ebook. In fact, many people think they are one and the same. They couldn’t be farther from the truth. They are entirely different species of the same animal.

Digital books

Digital books, sometimes also called electronic books or PDF books, are scanned, digital facsimiles of standard printed, published books. You can think of them as enhanced copies of the actual hard or paperback books we have come to know and love.

When we are talking about the digital version of newer publications, they are pretty much identical to the original. When talking about old or even ancient publication, they are much better than any original you would find on the shelf of your local library. Since they are facsimiles of the original printing, this really increases quality and helps overcome the problems of many older books, such as yellowed pages, stains, see-through or onion skin type paper, colored paper, brown inks, etc. These are scanned pages, not ‘copied’ pages, and the quality of print truly represents a better quality than the print of the original book.

The great majority of digital books come in PDF format, though Amazon offers a Kindle edition, Mobipocket offers the MOBI version, then there is the plain TEXT format, as well as many others.

Digital books are usually far less expensive than their hard or paperback counterparts, and there are hardly ever shipping costs, unless they are delivered on a CD (Compact Disk).


Ebooks are digital books too, but they were designed and written for the internet. Many, if not most ebooks were never officially “published” at all, unless you count posting something on the internet as publishing.

Most ebooks were meant to be written quickly, with little or no expenses except for possibly distribution. The majority are short, almost always less than 100 pages, usually under 50 pages. Some ebooks are literally slapped together in a matter of hours. Often they are little more than several short reports combined together.

Many ebooks are self-help books, or manuals of some kind, though there are some eBook works of history and fiction to be found if you look for them. More often than not, they have little or no literary value, their intentions being the distribution of facts, instructions and/or ideas.

Sometimes you may come across the eBook version of a hard or soft cover book. It will even be called the “ebook version” of whatever book. But if you look closer, you will find that this eBook version is almost always far fewer pages than the original. You may as well call the “ebook version” the “condensed version” of the book.

Though you will find many ebooks in PDF format, much like digital books, but many come as various generic interactive applications. But don’t let the initial attraction of interaction fool you. Even if this sounds like high tech education at first, you will find that there is not much to the promise of interaction. It just disguises the fact that these books are short, technically no more than a few pages, with little to no real practical, and even less academic value.

Last but not least, ebooks are often free or cheap, though you will occasionally find some specialty instruction “programs” costing hundred of dollars.


Technically, ebooks are digital books, though practically there is a big difference. Personally, I usually prefer a digital book to its eBook cousin.

By Thomas A. Retterbush

Source by Thomas Retterbush